Lake Oconee area

I have not felt moved to write this week. It is not that I detest writing; it is just that life has been relatively uneventful, especially when I compare it to the last 12 weeks on the road. It feels good to limit incoming stimuli. It is now rest and putter. Barb is off to the Athens, Georgia mall this morning and some thoughts and an email from LeRoy finally spur me on to write.

We did drive the 60 miles west to Atlanta for Thanksgiving at Penny’s sisters’. Ben and Penny drove up here Friday evening and stayed through Sunday afternoon. Other than that, it has been Barb and me in this lake home, which is a little larger than our home in Puyallup. We putter about painting, some maintenance, but the bulk of time is spent reading, watching evening television (they have Dish), on line research and reading the newspapers from back home, and gazing at the lake. We have visited some of the local towns (average pop 4,000) and have done some local history research. Madison is a pleasant town just 15 miles away. It was spared from destruction in Sherman’s march to the sea because a local citizen was a US Senator and a friend of Grant’s and had voted “no” to succession. Madison has many antebellum mansions dating from the early 1800’s and their tours and displays draw people from all over the area. Thus, Starbucks is there with many other quaint eateries and shops which capture Barb’s interest. Lake Oconee has many homes and a few resorts, including a Del Webb and a Ritz-Carlton, around it so Barb has many shopping “opportunities” available. There is also a WalMart, Lowes, and a Home Depot in the area. By and large, however, the surrounding land is forest and farm. Only a small percentage of homes are seen from the road as homes are often tucked down a road that disappears into the trees.

There are Civil War battle markers in the area. In my on line research, I did find an interesting story from this area. In 1964, three men with links to the KKK drove up to an African American man and shot him several times with their shot guns. The dead man, who was an Army Captain and a Bronze Star recipient, was driving through this area on his way home from Fort Benning, Georgia, to Washington D.C. The three men were arrested, tried, and even though one confessed, they were acquitted by an all white jury. The Feds were livid and rearrested the men but were only able to charge them with violation of civil rights. The men served six years in prison. The soldier is buried in Arlington National Cemetery

One morning I drove to a local marina to talk fishing with the locals. I ended up drinking coffee with five other men about my age, three of which spend their retirement hiring out as local fishing guides. I did not sign up but they were very friendly and helpful with local fishing details, which is very different from fishing the clear waters for trout or salmon in Washington. I haven’t really been driven to fish but I did buy a license, which was very reasonable. One of the men asked as to why I was out here all the way from Seattle (I told them but they knew I wasn’t from here as I “talk funny”). When I mentioned that Ben came out here years ago to attend Georgia Tech, they all guffawed. This is country. The country people and a many city people are Georgia fans. Tech fans are Atlanta based for the most part. As I have driven around the community, I have seen many Georgia flags and decals. I have yet to see a Tech symbol. Ben related that when he deals with local contractors, he mentions that Penny graduated from the University of Georgia.

It got down to 34 one night and was in the mid 40’s for most of two days. Two days were in the 70’s and the rest were mid 50’s to 60’s. It is 55 now at noon. We’ve had two days of needed rain. Weather can really vary here in the midst of winter. It can be 70 or it can be in the teens.

We anticipate that our lifestyle as described above will continue for the next 5 weeks. Blogs will be few and far between. As for the rest of the day today, I have some decisions to make. I could paint the door trim downstairs. I could try fishing. I may just read and watch the lake. Sometimes I like having to make decisions.

Thanks

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.

Don't look for daily blogs until after the new year when Barb and I hit the road again. We are relaxing on the lake and thoroughly enjoying the area.

Landed and settling in

November 19, 2007

Ben and Penny arrived at the campground around noon and Barb and I were ready. They led us on the short drive to their lake house and we parked the rig on a paved pad next to the house. It was mid 60’s, the trees are in full color, and the lake surface was like glass. Pisgah and Charlie (B&P’s dogs) frolicked in the leaves and in the water. Their lake retreat is a 5 bedroom, 3 bath house, enough room that Barb and I may not run into each other more than twice a day. We have it alone during the week, but we look forward to the weekends with Ben, Penny, and dogs. B&P bought the house seven months ago and have done a major remodel, much of it themselves. It is light, open and artfully done. Barb and I are pleased that there are some minor projects for us to do. We have missed yard work and puttering around. However, there are two lounge chairs and a canoe at the dock and the fish are jumping. That area may receive considerable attention. The drought has lowered the lake level approximtely 3 feet. This area has not been effected nearly as much as the lake north of Atlanta which is down 25 or so feet.

The picture on the right is sunrise, this morning.

Landed

We are currently parked at a campground near Ben and Penny's lake home. We will do maintenance on the rig today and tomorrow and move into their place in the p.m.

It snows in the mountains

November 15

As we near the final leg of our march into Georgia, we realize that we have experienced one of the warmest and driest autumns in record on the eastern seaboard. Yesterday, it was 66 degrees in the mountains. It rained through the night last night. Today, at the base where we are camped, it snowed. It is not sticking but temperature forecasts for tonight are in the high twenties. It is time to go south. Wait a minute, we are in the south. However, at 3000 feet, we are in the mountains. They get snow here every year. I knew the risk in coming to this area so late. However, the beauty of the area and the proximity to Ben and Penny dictated that we visit this week.

We did drive in to Asheville (pop 70,000) today. It is often rated as one of America’s top cities in which to live. Vanderbilt built his 120,000 acre grand estate here in the late 1880’s. Much of the estate is now part of the Pisgah National Forest. Rich people followed him here and the downtown architecture reflects early 1900’s. The climate is usually fair, the mountains are colorful, and Asheville is now one of the art centers of the U.S. We noted the unusual downtown architecture and visited a folk art center.

The first picture is the county court house and is representative of the unique architecture of the city.

On top of old Smoky

November 14,

The clouds/fog was still hovering around the mountains but we decided to explore them via Jeep today. The weather was a warm high 60’s. We entered the park and ascended from 3000 to 7000 feet. One of the first familiar plants we recognized was rhododendrons. They were quite prevalent and in some places completely covered a wide area. It must be extremely beautiful to take this drive in April when they are blooming. The trees were still holding about half their leaves. We drove through the other half. At times the sun broke through but most views were fog shrouded. Fifty miles later we exited the park in Gatlinburg, TN. We had a late lunch there and walked the streets of this destination resort. The sun appeared to be breaking through so we headed back over the mountains toward home again. Alas, the fog won out as we found few clear views. Smoky Mountains, indeed.

Smoky Mountain High

November 13

The mountains were “smoky” today. Thank goodness it was not due to fire. It is dry here. The temps were in the mid 60’s. The television reports that rainfall is 14 inches below normal. However, they get an average of 50 inches of rainfall a year here. Even though it is dry, there is water around. The fog rolled in and a few raindrops fell. Not much. Not what they need.

We are settled near Waynesville, NC, which is located at the base of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The early settlers named them “smoky” because of the blue haze that hangs over them. We are at the last campsite before we travel a little more than 150 miles to Ben and Penny’s lake home. It is difficult to focus on another of God’s special creations and another historical area when we are so close to Ben and Penny. It is not that we are tired of seeing the glory of creation. It is not that we are tired of our RV. We enjoy our home on wheels. It is just that there has been so much to absorb and process. And a goal set so long ago is so close to reality. Our RV will sit on Ben and Penny's place in Georgia. We will to be around family. We will gather with Ben and Penny at dinner. We will sit at their lake, as depleted as the drought depicts it so, and process, drink coffee, read, and take afternoon naps. We will relish in their environment and we will rediscover ours. Again, we will retire. I’ve missed my naps. A perk of retirement I wish to revisit. Family rediscovered. Via Ben and Penny.

This is tobacco country. I have gained two perspectives. Cigarettes are cheaper here than any place I have seen. Secondly, we stopped at a grocery store today. The chew tobacco display was larger than the wine rack. Yes, the USA is a varied culture.

Greensboro

November 12, 2007

We settled near Greensboro, NC today after a drive of a little over two hundred miles. I think we drove through college basketball heaven today as we saw exit signs to Duke, Univ of NC, NC State, and Wake Forest, all within an hour or so.

Friends from long ago, New Bern

November 11

New Bern, North Carolina lies at the confluence of the Trent and Neuse rivers and is just thirty or so miles from the ocean. It is the second oldest city in NC, founded in 1710, and once served as its capital. A Civil War battle was fought here in 1862, and in 1890, a local pharmacist concocted a brew which was later named Pepsi. Elvis performed here in the 50’s. The Today show listed it as one of the best places to retire. None of the above drove us to come here. Roger and Freda retired here.

Freda was one of my teaching partners at the International School Bangkok (ISB) in 1972. Roger was an army officer at the time and was posted “up country”. Over the years, we have stayed in contact with them as Freda emerged into her role as the “Queen of ISB”. Roger served two tours in Thailand and returned there as a civilian employee for the U.S. government. In all, they lived there 24 years.

Freda worked almost all of those years at ISB. This is very unique as it is customary in international schools settings that international hires stay just a few years, then move on to a new post. 24 years of service to one international school is very rare. Freda emerged as the “institutional memory” of ISB and served in a variety of capacities. Roger retired from his civilian job, returned to the U.S. to attend college, acquired his teaching certificate, and returned to ISB to teach. They both retired in 2002 and returned to settle in their native state. They settled here due to New Bern’s charm, climate, infrastructure, and proximity to water.

The charm of the area is reflected in Roger and Freda’s lifestyle. The first picture is Freda and Roger picking us up at our campsite dock. It was cold in the early morning, around 40 degrees, but the sun was shining and the air was clear. The second picture reflects our travels through the channels and rivers of the area, and the last, is a picture of our arrival in Freda and Roger's backyard. Hospitality reigned supreme. Roger and Freda represent a combination of southern hospitality and Thai graciousness. Very special, Roger and Freda .

NC

Arrived in New Bern, NC to visit friends for two days.

Jamestown and Yorktown

November 9, 2007

Jamestown (1607), like Williamsburg, almost disappeared. It became a plantation in the late seventeenth century and farm implements were dragged through the soil until the late 1800’s. Finally, authorities recognized the importance of the site and purchased the property for a preserve. Today, excavation is still ongoing. It was 1993 when the location of the fort, graves, and buildings, were first discovered. The lives of John Smith and Pocahontas are well documented. They kept accurate records which indicated that only 90 of the 300 colonists survived the first three years.

Yorktown (1781), which is recognized as the last battle of the Revolutionary War, is just a few miles east of Jamestown. Here Washington cornered Cornwallis and forced him and his army to surrender. It, again, was a preserved area of fields sprinkled with plaques and antique cannons. Barb and I are getting a bit fatigued at visiting these sites. They bring history to life but there are too many battlefields in this country. I hope we stop creating them.

The first two pictures are from Jamestown, the third is Norm discussing strategy with Washington and French Admiral de Grasse. Washington and deGrasse only met twice, both times on deGrasse's ship. Yet it was deGrasse's defeat of the English navy which enabled Washington to trap Cornwallis, ending the war.

"Viva la France."

Kill Devil Hills to America's Lighthouse

November 8, 2007

We knew it would be a big day. It was something we really wanted to do. 420 miles sounded a bit far. First, there was Kill Devil Hills and Nags Head. Don’t you just love the old place names? Do you think a Puyallup developer could sell his homes in a new housing neighborhood that he named Kill Devil Hills or Nags Head? Also, Orville, Wilbur, Blackbeard, the Lost Colony, and the lone highway down the narrow stretch of Cape Hatteras to America’s Lighthouse lured us on.

We left early and arrived at Kitty Hawk around 11. The monument and exhibits were excellent. It helped that the day was pleasant and there was a light wind out of the northeast, just what Orville and Wilbur had sought when they came from Ohio to do their tests.

The Lost Colony monument was just down the road on the island of Roanoke. It recognized the first attempt of the English to settle North America in 1585, 17 years before Jamestown and 35 years before the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth. After establishing an outpost, the British ship sailed back to England for more supplies, and on return found no one at the settlement. 116 men, women and children disappeared and the mystery has never been solved.

More than 600 ships have wrecked of the shallow shoals of Hatteras. Most were from storms but some were due to pirates or the occasional naval battle. Mid afternoon found us at the Cape Hatteras lighthouse which was built in 1870. It is called America's lighthouse because it is the tallest brick beacon on America's coast, standing 208 feet tall. It is the symbol of North Carolina.

It was a long day but the 12 hour travelogue kept us thoroughly engaged. Cape Hatteras is so unique, historically and geographically. The pictures show Barb on the wing with Orville, the lighthouse, local fisherman returning from their day's events, and the cape's road.

Williamsburg

November 7, 2007

When the Rockefellers found Williamsburg in disrepair in 1930, they decided to buy it and return it to its original glory. The former capital of the colony and state of Virginia, this historical icon had evolved into a sleepy town of run down dwellings and shops. The homes were purchased, the official buildings rebuilt, and the area was turned into what I would call a “Disneyland of colonial history mixed with Shakespearean Ashland”. Part of it is history. Much of it is theater. Shop after shop display colonial artisans at work. These presentations are interrupted by political speeches and by redcoats taking over the village to be later pushed out by Washington. We all followed the fife and drums as they marched down the main street to gather at the city hall to hear Washington tell of his plans to catch Cornwallis in the final battle of the war in nearby Yorktown. The village now is bordered by hotels and the campus of William and Mary. There is a large upscale shopping area and a golf course nearby.

It is designed to be a destination resort. Barb and I tried to see it one day. Bad idea. Plan at least 3. It is well done, fun, enlightening and informative. Points of view of the British, the loyalists, the Patriots, and the slaves are readily shared in dramatic interludes. I enjoy and read history. I learned a lot. I would like to come back except next time I’ll bring my bike. I didn’t. Bad move.

Transition

It was just 120 miles to a campsite on the Piankatank River, just inland from Chesapeake Bay near Glenns, VA. We arrived around noon, the sky was blue and the temperature in the mid 60’s. We had lunch on the picnic table outside the rig. Even though this area reeks with history, we relaxed the afternoon away. God willing, tomorrow we will visit Williamsburg, Kitty Hawk and Cape Hatteras on Thursday, and Yorktown and Jamestown on Friday. We travel again on Saturday.

November 5

If the first picture is not clear, use the back of your nickel.

Monticello stands prominently at the top of a mountain (hill) overlooking the treed valleys below. The buildings and gardens were designed by Jefferson and he strictly supervised construction over a forty year period. As a self taught student of architecture, his estate evolved into a neoclassical design, an outgrowth of his experience in France, and his taste for design and elegance. His gardens were scientifically nurtured and his home was filled with his inventions and the inventions of the day. Science, literature, history, architecture, horticulture, and art all ooze forth as you walk through the mansion. The plantation grew to 1,000 acres at one time and he owned 200 slaves. At his death, he had accumulated and, perhaps inherited, much debt, forcing the family to sell the home, its contents and his slaves. Monticello, like Mount Vernon, was purchased by a nonprofit in 1923 which has replenished the mansion with many of the original artifacts.

I draw some comparisons in visiting both Mt. Vernon and Monticello within the week. Both men married wealthy widows named Martha. Neither fathered sons to carry on the family name. Both enjoyed farming and used scientific methods. Both detested tobacco and what it did to their soil and eagerly changed their farms to grain. Both used the grain to produce their favorite libation. Washington was once the largest distiller of whiskey in the colonies. Jefferson brewed beer. Both lived as renaissance men but both families lost their estates after their death. Both owned slaves and although they granted some of their slaves freedom, most were sold at the master’s death. Both were dedicated family men and enjoyed having their daughters (step daughters in Washington’s case) and grandchildren live with him until death. Both men are buried at their family homes next to their wives and extended family.

I would rate Monticello at the top spot of the trip. Yes, Niagara is a moving and powerful creation. The legacy of Jefferson is profound and summed up in his own epitaph. “The author of the Declaration of Independence, the author of the Virginia Statute for Religious Freedom, and the founder of the University of Virginia.” No mention was made of his ambassadorship, his presidency or his orchestration of westward expansion. As large as his tombstone is, there was no room for all of his accomplishments and he clearly indicated what he felt was most important. What a man.

We spent the afternoon driving the Jeep through part of the Blue Ridge Parkway. The day was clear but it is November 5. It is a late fall here and the color, however vibrant, was lost to the dry and warm conditions. The treed mountains (hills) and incredible views I hope are somewhat represented in the pictures.

VA

November 4

Unfortunately the hazy weather muted the vibrant color that bordered us on each side as we traveled down Interstate 81. The Appalacian Mountains (Blue Ridge Mountains, Shenandoah Mountains, Allegheny Mountains – they all run together and look like hills to west coasters) are at their peak color. Hopefully, we will get better views tomorrow. We debated taking the more scenic “Skyline Drive” but determined that the road was too curvy for the RV.

Arrival in Charlottesville, VA, was around 1 p.m. We walked the UVA campus to view the layout designed by Thomas Jefferson.

Jefferson designed the Rotunda to be the center of a Academical Village which still exists today. It was built a few years after he died and included a huge common behind the Rotunda which was flanked by buildings in which students and faculty lived, sharing their academic time and talents. This Utopian arrangement is based on the Jeffersonian principle that learning is a lifelong and shared process and that interaction between faculty and students is vital to learning. Jefferson was right.

The top picture is the Rotunda, the second is the side of the common with student and faculty housing, and the third is the hallway outside the housing rooms. Note the firewood. Some are still heated with wood. Many students apply to live in these rooms so a faculty/student committee meet yearly to select the residents. All have huge gardens, all uniquely designed by Jefferson, out the back doors.

Washington tomb

Pictures are the coffins of General and Mrs. Washington, children and adults laying flowers at the tomb, and Washington's barn, invented in a way to efficiently thrash wheat.

Mt Vernon and the Aunes

November 2

Mount Vernon is the most visited historical site in the U.S. Barb and I thought we were smart in visiting it during the week in this “off season” month. As we pulled into the parking lot, we could not count the number of buses in line along the street. Most were school buses. The site was teeming with kids.

As the Bush and Kennedy families, among others, have been labeled American aristocracy, George Washington’s family truly represents this label. His great grandfather was granted 5000 acres on the upper Potomac in 1674. Mount Vernon is part of that grant.

Washington’s plantation, 8000 acres at its zenith, was manned by 60 or so slaves. It was a pleasant retreat, a farm, and a place where George, when not serving as the Father of our County, would putter about refining farming techniques and inventing and developing tools and equipment. George, Martha and other family members are buried there. Interestingly, Washington never fathered any children, but he did father our nation.

The mansion grounds, 500 acres, were purchased from the Washington family in 1858 and today is owned and operated by a nonprofit. It is well maintained. The displays and exhibits are some of the best that we have seen. The best spot of all is sitting on the back veranda of the original home overlooking the Potomac. You can imagine sitting there with Jefferson, Adams, Franklin, Lafayette or many other notables.

We spent five hours there and it was not enough. It is a special place with a special message. Aristocratic or not, President Washington was a man of dedication and honor. A man whose father died at age eleven, sought a pragmatic education equal to only an eighth grade education, was the right person for the times.

We visited Greg, Christie, Noah, and Emma Aune in the evening. Greg is my nephew and is in his residency at John Hopkins in Baltimore. Christie is an Army physician at Walter Reed. This incredibly busy couple, along with their two beautiful children (4 year old twins), entertained us for dinner. An evening with family, highly cherished.

Pictures are the mansion, the view from the back veranda, the garden, and Greg and Christie. Noah and Emma were already in bed.

The Mall

November 1

We decided that on this trip we were not going to focus on downtown D.C. We were here for a week with the kids in 1991 and we tried to do it all. It included the Whitehouse tour and a local representative aide guiding us around Congress, as well as the memorials, and some of the Smithsonian and other museums. We even attended a play at the Ford’s Theater. So this time, we aimed to concentrate on seeing friends and hitting the outlaying areas. But, we couldn’t stay away from the mall.

We boarded a Metro bus here at the campground and were dropped off at the local subway station. Within 30 minutes we ascended on to Pennsylvania Ave. We walked to mall area and basically reminisced about our former trip. We visited the Viet Nam Memorial again and, given recent events, it was even more moving then when we visited it several years ago. The Lincoln memorial is always special. I will never grow tired of the view. As you stand and view his expressive face carved in stone, you turn and see the Washington Monument in the sky and in the reflecting pool.

As in small towns, you get a real feel of the community if you eat in a local restaurant. Barb and I found an Indian restaurant near the Metro entrance. It was 6:30 and the place was bustling. We were able to get one of the last tables. I think I was the only male in the place without a sport coat. Most were in suits. Oh, I miss the international culture. There were two women and man about our age sitting in the table next to us. At one point their conversation went something like this:

Male: So how was your trip?
Female: Oh, it is always a trip flying into Kabul. They bring you in over the mountains and set you right down.
Other Female: Is it as eventful as flying into Baghdad?
Female: Well, it is different. Baghdad is much more frightening with all the flares going off and the way they bring you down in that tight circle.

Another refreshing aspect of the D.C. area is that people do not hesitate to discuss politics and/or religion. First of all, the business is politics. Secondly, politics and religion is so varied that different opinions are accepted as a part of this creation. You agree to disagree and you respect the other position. Discussions are very animated but relationships are valued even though there is difference of opinion.

friends

October 31

As you can tell from our blog, Barb and I have a great deal of love and respect for our families. The support, love, and attention, grounded in common heritage, supports us in our daily pursuits.

Tuesday evening, and again on Wednesday, Barb and I returned to family. However, this segment of our family does not share any of our DNA. Both times that Barb and I have been posted overseas, we have connected with other couples who became “like family”. The two years in China, however fulfilling, were two of the most difficult of our lives. Our daily activities centered on our immediate family, the school, and the expat community. Close friendships occurred as you consoled and supported each other through and around difficult obstacles. Through recreation and dialogue we progressed. The friendship connections remain as the time together lapses and the years pass. Several families still fit into that category. We were fortunate to visit two.

Steve and Imoi live in Germantown, MD. Steve was the #2 person in the U.S. Consulate at Guangzhou and was president of the school board. His China roots are deep as his mother was born to missionary parents in China. He has since retired from the State Department and does consulting, much of it related to national security. Their daughter was Kari’s best friend in Guangzhou. Ben and I spent many evenings with Steve as members of the Guangzhou Cleavers, the expatriate basketball team. Imoi is a gourmet cook and we again delighted in some of her Asian dishes. Since we had only seen each other twice since China, the evening was filled with recollection, dreams, and, of course, political discussion.

Jeff and Richelle, probably more than any other couple, aided in our transition into the Guangzhou community. Richelle, in her second year of teaching, was the 2nd-3rd grade teacher and one of the only staff members who had served the school before we arrived. They adopted our kids, helped us fit into the Consulate community, and greatly aided me in understanding the role of the school in the community. Richelle was Nathan's third grade teacher. I am so proud of Richelle as today she is the Director of Silver Springs Day School, a private preschool of over a hundred students. Jeff was a young Junior Officer working in the visa section of the consulate. A master of languages (he wrote his Dartmouth thesis in French), Jeff was one of the few who was fluent in the local Chinese language, Cantonese. We enjoyed traveling around Guangzhou with him as Jeff appeared to relish, as I do, in the local stories and traditions of the common people. Jeff has served in many capacities of service at the Federal level and is now working for a private nonprofit. Jeff took us to lunch near his office. As humble and selfless as he is, I was able to pry out of him that he had spent the morning orchestrating resources for the recovery from the devastation in Haiti from tropical storm Noel.

We toured Richelle’s school. Barb and I were delighted to see the children immersed in art and engaged in cooperative activities with significant parent involvement. It was Halloween Day and the celebratory day was filled with what I call “growth opportunities”. We had not seen Richelle in 18 years and it was very fulfilling for Barb and I to see the elements of education that we so believe in, exhibited in Richelle’s programs. Oh, I do not interpret this as legacy. She, as we were in China, is freed from state confinements and doctrines, and is able to create programs that are enriching to children. We spent Halloween eve at Jeff and Richelle’s home with their daughter Meredith and about a hundred or so trick or treaters.

It was two days of friendships rekindled and pleasant times shared.

Antietam Harpers

October 30

Mason Dixon Line. It was established because of a feud regarding the border between the Pennsylvania and the Maryland colonies. In 1760, Charles Mason and Jeremiah Dixon were commissioned to survey and they established the border which was labeled the Mason Dixon Line. In 1820, a compromise indicated the line as the border between slave and free states. When we crossed the Mason Dixon Line on Sunday we immediately noticed one thing. Wafflehouse logos were on signs at almost every exit on the Interstates. I guess we are now in the South.

We drove out to the Antietam battlefield and on to Harpers Ferry. The blue sky and warm sunshine projected an air of peace over the fields. However, in the 12 hour battle at Antietam in 1862, there were 23,100 casualties, more than any other day in the history of the U.S. Again, masses of men were sent in waves at each other. Clara Barton tended the wounded. Dr. William Childs, a Union Army surgeon later wrote:

“When I think of the battle of Antietam, it seems strange. Who permits it? To see or feel that a power is in existence, that can and will hurl masses of men against each other in deadly conflict, slaying each other by the thousands, is almost impossible. But it is so, and why, we cannot know.”

Although neither side won, it was the first battle of the young war where Federalist troops were not defeated. Both the Federalists and the Confederates withdrew to lick their wounds and fight another day. A few weeks after the battle, Lincoln dismissed General McClellan for not pursuing his friend “Bobbie Lee” and possibly ending the war. The war dragged on 3 more years.

Harpers Ferry lies at the bottom of a valley at the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah River. Most of the historic village in now under the management of the National Park Service. I had no idea of the involved history of this town. It is most famous for the raid on the armory conducted by John Brown, the fierce abolitionist (we visited his community, Jefferson, Ohio, center of the abolition movement and terminus of the Underground Railroad). In 1859 he hoped to take the extensive arms manufactured and stored here to begin a campaign to rid the country of slavery. His plan failed and the local militia, under Lt. Col Robert E. Lee, captured Brown and his raiders. During the Civil War, many battles were fought here and the armory was burned.

However, many years before these battles, George Washington, as a young man, had surveyed this area. It was Washington, as president, who ordered an armory built here because of the location’s strategic importance. In 1783 Thomas Jefferson, stopped by and did some exploring here on his way to serve in the Continental Congress, Lewis outfitted his expedition at the armory. Lincoln reviewed the troops here. Custer met his wife here. Jeb Stewart and Stonewall Jackson served here. Even though the raid on the armory was futile, it did increase the flames of abolitionists zeal. Fredrick Douglass and W.E.B. DuBois both used Harpers Ferry to launch civil rights campaigns. The NAACP has its roots here.

All this happened here and it really is just a small town at the confluence of two rivers.

Pictures are the Appalacian Trail, the battle field, and downtown Harpers Ferry.